Kalamar Tava with Tarator

TasteAtlas recently named kalamar tava as Turkey’s best-rated dish. When I first heard that, I wasn’t entirely convinced. Turkey has so many iconic dishes that it seemed almost impossible to choose just one.

But the more I thought about it, the more it made sense.

I’ve eaten calamari in many countries over the years, including Greece and Spain, but the best one I’ve ever had was in Akyaka, a small coastal town on Turkey’s southwest coast. My husband and I were dating at the time, and we still talk about that meal whenever we order calamari.

This recipe is my tribute to that memory.

The good news is that making excellent kalamar tava at home is much easier than it seems. The most important step is starting with very fresh squid. A short soak in beer helps tenderise the squid, and a light coating of flour creates a delicate crisp crust.

Served with a bowl of tarator and plenty of lemon wedges, this is one of those dishes that instantly transports me back to the Turkish coast.

Kalamar Tava with Tarator Sauce

Ingredients

For the calamari

1 kg fresh squid, cleaned

330 ml lager beer

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

200 g plain flour

Vegetable oil, for frying

Lemon wedges, to serve

For the tarator

1/2 cup blanched almonds

6 garlic cloves

1/2 grated onion

100 g stale bread, crusts removed, soaked, drained and squeezed

Juice of 1 lemon

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/4 to 1/2 cup olive oil

This quantity makes more tarator than you will need for this recipe, but any leftovers are excellent with grilled vegetables, fried courgettes or simply spread on bread.

Method

1. Prepare the squid

Slice the squid tubes into rings and cut the fins into strips. Leave the tentacles whole, removing the beak if necessary.

Place the squid in a bowl with the beer and salt. Leave to soak for 10–15 minutes.

Drain the squid well and pat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper.

2. Make the tarator

Place the almonds, garlic and grated onion in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.

Add the soaked and squeezed bread, lemon juice, salt and white pepper. Blend until the mixture starts to come together.

With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until you have a thick, creamy sauce. If needed, add a tablespoon or two of cold water to loosen it to your preferred consistency.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with more lemon juice or salt if needed.

3. Coat the squid

Place the flour in a shallow bowl.

Toss the squid in the flour, shaking off any excess.

4. Fry the calamari

Heat 3–4 cm of vegetable oil in a wide saucepan to 180°C.

Fry the squid in batches for 1½–2 minutes, until lightly golden and crisp.

Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and sprinkle with a little salt while still hot.

5. Serve

Arrange the calamari on a serving plate with the tarator and lemon wedges.

Serve immediately.

Notes

Fresh squid makes a huge difference to both texture and flavour.

Do not overcrowd the pan or the squid will steam rather than crisp.

Squid should be cooked quickly; overcooking will make it rubbery.

The tarator can be made a few hours in advance and kept chilled.